The Foodist: Chestnut and Pumpkin Soup

This The Foodist: Chestnut and Pumpkin Soup recipe is DEFINITELY a keeper! You have not lived until you have tasted the decadent luxury of a roasted chestnut in a soup. This soup is filled with flavor and is good in any configuration is good.

This is another banger recipe from “The Soups of France” by Lois Anne Rothert. Buy this book! It is one of the best investments we have made here at Mezzacello.

Here at Mezzacello we believe this book should be in the library of every urban garden or homestead garden in America. French food is so delightful with access to the freshest ingredients. It can’t be fresher than growing the vegetables, herbs, eggs, and meats yourself.

INGREDIENTS

• 2 Pounds fresh chestnuts, or 1 pound canned whole peeled chestnuts
• 1 Pound peeled pumpkin flesh
• ¼ Cup unsalted butter
• 1 Large waxy potato, peeled and sliced
• 1 Young, slender carrot, peeled and finely diced
• ½ Celery stalk, finely diced
• 1 Slender leek, white and pale green parts only, finely minced
• 1 Small onion, finely diced
• 1 Clove garlic, finely minced
• 1 Bay leaf
• 6 Cups broth from chicken -in-the-pot recipe, or homemade chicken broth, or as needed
• 1 Teaspoon salt
• 6 Cups milk
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Freshly grated nutmeg
• Croûtons

DIRECTIONS

1. If using fresh chestnuts, slit on the Nlat side with a knife tip and place in a saucepan with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove only a few chestnuts at a time from the hot water and leave them until they have cooled slightly and can be handled. (Chestnuts are easier to peel when still warm.) Remove both the outer shells and the inner furry coating. Reserve some whole peeled chestnuts for garnish. If using canned chestnuts, drain well.
2. Cut the chestnuts into morsels. Cut the pumpkin into ¾-inch cubes; you should have 2 cups. Heat the butter in a heavy 4-quart soup pot over low heat. Add the chestnuts, potato, carrot, celery, leek, onion, garlic, and bay leaf and cook, stirring, until the butter is absorbed, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the pumpkin, 6 cups chicken broth, salt, and milk and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer for 20 minutes.
3. Remove the bay leaf and discard. Working with 1 or 2 ladlefuls at a time, purée the soup in a blender or food processor, processing each batch for 20 to 30 seconds until smooth. Strain the soup through a sieve; it should have the consistency of thick cream. If the soup is too thick, dilute with additional broth. Return the purée to the soup pot and reheat.
4. Taste and add more salt if needed and black pepper and nutmeg to taste. Ladle the soup into heated soup plates and garnish with the reserved whole chestnuts and croûtons.

NOTES

If you are buying fresh chestnuts, buy domestic ones. They tend to break apart easily, so they are suitable for preparing soups like this that are to be puréed.

Buy fresh chestnuts that are fat, hard to the touch, and have a brilliant skin. If you want, replace chestnuts with cashews.

This soup is ideal for family and guests in autumn and winter when chestnuts and pumpkins appear in the markets. Rich, colorful, and symbolic of harvest, this dish is an ideal opener for Thanksgiving dinner.

The Foodist: Frog Legs in Watercress Cream

If you have never tried frogs legs, or if you have only eaten them fried (as they are usually prepared), this recipe is a revelation. Flavored by both the tender bones and meat of the legs, the sumptuous cream soup delivers the meat, lean and moist, simmered to exceptional tenderness.

It is also a beautiful soup. The watercress leaves cannot completely purée due to their short cooking time. This retains their fresh flavor and the vivid color as well. The soup becomes a pale green flecked with dark green bits.

Sylvaner wine is sometimes difficult to find in the United States, but often a nice, crisp Alsatian white of Pinot Blanc grapes is blended with some Sylvaner. That wine is perfect for this soup and for sipping, too.

INGREDIENTS

• ¼ Cup unsalted butter
• 18 Pair small frogs’ legs
• 1 Shallot, finely minced
• ½ Cup long-grain white rice
• 6 to 7 Cups water
• 1 Bottle (750 ML.) Alsatian Sylvaner (a white fruity wine)
• I tsp salt
• 4 Cups watercress leaves, or 2 cups each  watercress and sorrel leaves
• 2 Egg yolks
• 2 Cups crème fraîche or heavy cream
• Pinch of freshly ground white pepper

DIRECTIONS

1. Melt the butter in a heavy 4-quart soup pot over medium heat. Add the frogs legs and shallot and cook, stirring gently, until the shallot is softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the rice, 6 cups of the water, the wine, and the salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until the rice is very tender, about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, place a small baking pan in a 250°F oven. Remove the stems from the watercress (and sorrel) leaves. Reserve a few watercress leaves for garnish. Add the leaves to the pot and simmer for 5 minutes more.
3. Take the frogs legs out of the pot and remove the meat from the bones. Cut into bite-sized pieces. Discard the bones and place the meat in the preheated baking pan. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and return to the oven. Working with 1 or 2 ladlefuls at a time, purée the soup in a blender or food processor, processing each batch 30 seconds until very smooth. Return the purée to the soup pot and reheat.
4. Whisk together the egg yolks and crème fraîche in a small bowl. Whisk in a ladleful or two of the hot puréed soup. Slowly add the egg mixture to the soup while whisking constantly. Add the reserved meat from the frogs legs and as much of the remaining 1 cup water as needed to achieve a good consistency. Reheat gently over medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow to boil.
5. Taste and add more salt if needed and the white pepper. Serve in heated soup plates and garnish with the reserved watercress leaves.

The Foodist: Cream of Carrot (Potage Crécy)

The Foodist: Cream of Carrot (Potage Crécy) is a recipe Rick found in his The Soups of France cookbook. This book is expensive, but it is also a work of art! Not one recipe so far has disappointed! So worth the $56 USD for hundred dollar meals.

Regarding the Potage Crecy, I was skeptical at first, but this soup is an aromatic and sensual pleasure. Equally good as a hot creamy soup and as a chilled gazpacho. Try it for yourself!

FRESHNESS MATTERS!

Another thing that I LOVE about this soup is that almost ALL of the ingredients came straight from the garden or from our stores! The butter and milk were bought (and I made the butter, yum!) but everything else was on hand. And that freshness is what makes this soup sing!

INGREDIENTS

• 2 Tbs unsalted butter
• 1 Medium-sized celery stalk, finely chopped
• ½ tsp curry powder (optional)
• 4 Cups finely chopped young, slender carrots
• 2 Medium-sized waxy potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1 tsp salt
• 6-8 Cups water
• 1 Cup milk (see note)
• Freshly ground white pepper
• 2 Tbs grated carrot, at room temperature (optional)
• 6 tsp low-fat sour cream or crème fraîche (optional)
• 2 large potatoes for the tiny potato croûtons (recipe follows)

DIRECTIONS

1. Melt the butter over low heat in a heavy 4-quart soup pot. Add the celery, onion, and the curry powder, if using, and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft and lightly colored, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the chopped carrots, potatoes, salt, and 6 cups of the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer gently, uncovered, over very low heat until the carrots are very tender, 20-25 minutes.
3. Working with 2-3 ladlefuls at a time, purée the soup in a food processor or blender, processing each batch for at least 30 seconds and adding a little milk to each batch to achieve a creamy consistency.
4. Return the purée to the pot and place it over low heat. Bring the soup to a simmer and add more salt and the white pepper to taste. (If curry powder has been added, use caution with the white pepper.). Add more water if the soup needs thinning.
5. Ladle immediately into heated soup plates. If you’d like, float a spoonful of grated carrot (râpée) on each serving as garnish. For a color contrast, form a swirl of sour cream on top prior to the garnish and accompany with croûtons.

NOTE:

Chilled Cream of Carrot (Potage Crécy Glacée)
Variation: Prepare the recipe as directed, but do not reheat the puréed soup. Season as directed, transfer to a stainless -steel or glass container, cover with plastic, and refrigerate to chill thoroughly. Chill the soup plates in the freezer. Salt to taste and add lemon, if desired.

Rick served this hot first with a lovely drizzle of sour cream, the lovey tiny potato crouton Crecy and fresh parsley and it was divine. Put the sour cream in a bag with a small hole or buy squeezable sour cream or make it yourself! But it is a fabulous touch!

The Foodist: African Peanut and Sweet Potato Soup

The Foodist: African Peanut and Sweet Potato Soup is one of my favorite of Rick’s winter soups. Thick, rich, hearty and delicious. A few simple ingredients make a delightful – and filling – dinner!

INGREDIENTS:

• Chicken- boneless cubed
• 1 large onion chopped
• 4 Cloves of garlic
• 2 tbsp oil
• 1 tbsp mild curry (can use cumin)
• 2 boxes of Chicken Broth
• 4-6 large sweet potatoes peeled and cubed
• 2-3 cans diced tomatoes
• 1 can tomato paste
• 1 Jar extra crunchy peanut butter
• Couple tbsp of Cilantro Soup Base

  • Or you can make your own!

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large pot add the chicken, onion, garlic, oil, and curry. Let the chicken get white.
2. Add the chicken broth and heat to boil.
3. Put in the potatoes- boil until soft.
4. Add diced tomatoes and tomato paste when the potatoes are soft (can turn the heat down some) and add the jar of peanut butter.
5. If you feel that the peanut butter is too thick or overpowers the soup, just add water or more broth.
6. I like to garnish with cilantro. No such thing as too much cilantro.

The Foodist: Roasted Butternut Squash Soup

The Foodist: Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with pancetta for dinner last night. Roasting the butternut halves in the oven first is key to this recipe! Perfect for cold fall or winter evenings, and it Freezes beautifully.

The butternut quash is raised here from heirloom seeds. Big meaty squash that stores well through winter. The rest of the root vegetables as well!

INGREDIENTS

• 2 2lb/1kg Whole Butternut Squashes
• 2.5 cups / 600ml Chicken Stock, or as    needed (can sub veg stock)
• 1 large White Onion, roughly diced
• 4 cloves of Garlic (skins left on)
• 2 tbsp Butter
• 2 tbsp Olive Oil
• 1 tbsp Honey
• 1 tbsp finely diced Fresh Rosemary
• 1/4 tsp Cayenne Pepper
• 1/4 tsp Salt, plus more to taste
• Black Pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. Slice off the very end of the squashes and carefully slice them in half lengthways. Gut out the seeds, then slice a crosshatch pattern in each one (don’t slice all the way through, this is just to allow the flavour to seep in). Place on a large baking tray.
2. In a small bowl combine 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper and 1/4 tsp salt. Brush the squashes, then pop a clove of garlic in each of the dips.
3. Place in the oven at 190C/375F for 45-60mins, or until very soft and caramelized. Don’t be tempted to rush this, low and slow is key to getting beautifully caramelized and fork-tender butternut squash. Pull the tray out 1 or 2 times to baste them in the juice that collects in the dips.
4. Meanwhile, in a large pot begin frying the onion in 2 tbsp butter over low-medium heat until soft, golden and caramelized. Again, low and slow is best.
5. Scoop out the flesh from the squashes and place into the pot, then squeeze the garlic out of the skins and add that in too. Pour in stock and blitz with a hand blender until smooth. If you want it thinner then just gradually add in more stock. If you go overboard just simmer to thicken. Season generously (to taste) with salt and pepper.
6. Serve hot with toasted pine nuts, pancetta and a teeny pinch of parsley.

NOTES

Spice – 1/4 tsp adds a nice gentle background tingle, but if you’re really not good with heat consider 1/8 tsp or just a pinch, then adjust accordingly at the end.

Stock – Add more or less for a thicker/thinner soup. I mostly use chicken stock as I find it to be richer, but veg stock does work well too.

Toppings (optional)

•  Toasted Pine Nuts
•  Crispy Pancetta
• Fresh Parsley

Toppings – If you’re struggling with pancetta, bacon would sub. Parsley is to add a pop of colour and a smidge of flavour, but definitely don’t go overboard. Just a teeny bit to finish. You can leave this out if you wish.

The Foodist: Bread Cheese and Butternut Squash and Pesto Soup

This is a delightful vegetarian soup. Rick created this recipe as an amalgam of three different recipes. The issue was whether to use apples or shallots in the soup. As with most of his recipes he made adjustments and compromises.

Instead of onions, which imparted a sharp taste to our Roasted Butternut Squash Soup, Rick switched to shallots, which had a sweeter, milder flavor. Rather than start the soup’s base of shallots and chicken broth on the stovetop, we cooked the two elements in the oven. We started by tossing chopped shallots with oil and the squash.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 medium butternut squash (about 3 pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks (see note on squash body)
• 3 medium shallots, peeled and quartered -OR
  • 1 ½ pounds Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
• ¼ cup vegetable oil
• Salt and pepper
• 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth (or vegetarian stock)
• 1 Tbsp maple syrup
• 1 tsp cider vinegar
• ⅛ tsp ground nutmeg
• ¼ cup heavy cream

PESTO RECIPE

• 1 cup parsley
• 1/4 cup parmesan cheese shredded
• 1/2 cup EVOO
• 1 Tbsp chopped sage
• 1/2 cup chopped walnuts
• 1 Tbpn lemon juice
• salt and pepper

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Toss squash, apples, shallots, oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in large bowl, then arrange in single layer in large roasting pan.
3. Roast, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are golden brown and softened, about 45 minutes. Add ½ cup broth to pan and scrape up any browned bits with wooden spoon.
4. Return to oven and cook until liquid has reduced and vegetables are glazed, about 5 minutes.
5.  Working in 2 batches, puree squash mixture and remaining broth in blender until smooth.
6. Transfer pureed squash mixture to large saucepan and stir in syrup, vinegar, nutmeg, and cream.
7. Bring soup to simmer over medium-low heat, adding ¼ cup water at a time as necessary to adjust consistency.
8. Add in the pesto and stir in softly.
9. Serve.
10. (Soup can be refrigerated in airtight container for 3 days.)

Note:

Because the bulbous end of butternut squash contains the seeds and stringy fibers, purchase squash with a relatively long neck—they have more usable flesh. You can replace the chicken broth with vegetable broth for a vegetarian version of this soup

The Foodist: Hearty Beef Barley Soup

This The Foodist: hearty beef barley soup is hands down one of my favorites! Meaty, with a delightful rich gravy, lots of chunky vegetables and the barley! So much good flavor, filling and very healthy!

It’s really simple to make, and the recipe makes a lot, so be prepared to freeze at least half! Use a vegetarian broth and shiitake or portabello mushrooms to give it that meaty hearty taste! Best of all is this soup keeps well in the fridge and freezes beautifully in a ziploc bag stored flat.

The barley is fantastic in this soup, but it has a caveat! When you add barley into a soup it absorbs liquids. Each time you reheat this soup, add a bit of water, otherwise it quickly becomes a dry stew!

Build This Stew Slowly

Do NOT underestimate the time and attention this broth requires. Also, the extra veggies are so worth the time in this soup. And no Mezzacello The Foodist recipe would be complete without our beloved mirepoix!

INGREDIENTS

• Broth Ingredients
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 6 pounds beef shank meat cut from bone in large chunks, or 4 pounds chuck and 2 pounds of small marrow bones
  • Substitute meaty mushrooms pan seared with garlic for vegetarian option
• 1 large onion, halved
• ½ cup dry red wine
• ½ teaspoon table salt
• Soup Ingredients
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 3 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 Tbsp Anchovy paste
• 1 Tbsp tomato paste
• 1 Tbsp Garlic, crushed/pressed
• 1 medium onion, cut into medium dice
• 2 medium carrots, cut into medium dice
• 2 medium celery stalks, cut into medium dice
• 12 ounces domestic mushrooms or wild mushrooms, stems removed, wiped clean, and sliced thin
• ½ teaspoon dried thyme or 1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
• ½ cup canned tomatoes, cut into medium dice
• 1 small can of sweet corn
• 1 cup of small tender Brussels Sprouts, halved
• 6 medium red potatoes, quartered
• ½ cup pearl barley
• ¼ cup minced fresh parsley leaves
• Salt and ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

1. For Broth: Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a large soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-high heat; brown meat, bones, and onion halves on all sides in batches, making sure not to overcrowd the pan, and adding the additional teaspoon and a half of oil to the pan if necessary. Remove and set aside.
2. Add red wine to the empty kettle; cook until reduced to a syrup, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Return browned bones, meat, and onion to kettle. Reduce heat to low, then cover and sweat meat and onions until they have released about 3/4 cup dark, very intensely flavored liquid, about 20 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, add 2 quarts water and salt; bring to a simmer, reduce heat to very low, partially cover, and barely simmer until meat is tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
4. Strain broth, discard bones and onions, and set meat aside, reserving half of the meat for another use. (At this point broth and meat can be cooled to room temperature and covered and refrigerated up to 5 days.) Let broth stand until fat rises to the top; skim and discard fat. When the unreserved meat is cool enough to handle, shred into bite-size pieces. Reserve 2 cups shredded meat for soup.
5. For Soup: Heat oil over medium-high heat in a soup kettle or Dutch oven.
6. Add mirepoix (onion, celery, and carrots) Brussels Sprouts, and potatoes; sauté until almost soft, 3 to 4 minutes.
7. Add corn, pastes, worcestershire sauce, and mushrooms; sauté until softened and liquid almost evaporates, 4 to 5 minutes longer.
8. Add thyme and tomatoes, then beef broth, meat, and barley; bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low; simmer until barley is just tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Scraping bottom of the pan occasionally.
9. Stir in parsley, adjust seasonings, including salt and pepper to taste, and serve.